Short answer: leather is skin, so treat it like skin. Keep it clean and conditioned, never wash it, and if it gets soaked let it dry slowly at room temperature away from any heat, because heat is what makes wet leather dry hard and crack. Suede never meets water at all: brush it dry and use a block eraser on marks. Most leather is ruined not by wear but by a radiator, a hairdryer or a washing machine.
Know what you have
| Material | How to tell | Care |
|---|---|---|
| Full-grain and aniline leather | Visible grain, darkens when you touch it with a damp finger | Condition regularly. Marks and patina are the point |
| Corrected or pigmented leather | Uniform surface, water beads on it | Wipe clean. A coating sits on top, so conditioner does less |
| Suede | Soft fuzzy nap, made from the underside | Brush only. Never water |
| Nubuck | Like suede but finer, made from the outer side | As suede, with a softer brush |
| Patent | High gloss plastic coating | Damp cloth. No conditioner; it cannot absorb |
| Shearling and sheepskin | Leather one side, wool the other | Specialist clean. Never submerge |
| Faux leather | Fabric backing visible at a cut edge | Damp cloth and mild soap. No conditioner; it cracks on its own with age |
The routine
- Brush or wipe after each wear. Dust is abrasive, and on suede it mats the nap within weeks.
- Clean with a barely damp cloth, wrung out hard, working in small circles. Never soak, never use washing-up liquid on leather; it strips the oils.
- Condition smooth leather every three to six months, more in a dry climate. A thin even coat, left twenty minutes, then buffed off.
- Less is more with conditioner. Over-conditioning softens leather past the point where it holds shape, and on shoes it accelerates creasing.
- Use shoe trees in leather shoes, cedar for preference. They hold the shape and absorb the moisture your foot left.
- Rest shoes a day between wears. This does more for how long they last than any product.
- Store with airflow, never in a plastic bag. Leather needs to breathe or it develops mould.
Suede specifically
- Brush with a suede brush in one direction to lift the nap, every wear.
- A block eraser takes out scuffs and shiny patches. Rub gently, then brush.
- Protector spray before first wear and after every clean. This is the one product worth having.
- Steam from a kettle, held at a distance, revives flattened nap. Brush while it is warm.
- Grease marks: cornflour left overnight absorbs some of it, then brush off. Fresh marks only.
- Never apply leather conditioner to suede. It mats the nap permanently.
If it gets wet
This is where most leather is lost, and almost always in the drying rather than the wetting.
- Blot immediately with a dry cloth. Do not rub.
- Stuff shoes or bags with paper to hold shape, changing it as it dampens. Not newspaper on pale leather; the ink transfers.
- Dry at room temperature, slowly, away from radiators, hairdryers, direct sun and car heaters. Heat drives the oils out and the leather dries hard and cracks.
- Expect 24 to 48 hours. Rushing it is the mistake.
- Condition once fully dry, because drying removes oils even when done correctly.
- For suede, let it dry fully, then brush vigorously to lift the nap back up. It usually recovers better than people expect.
- Salt marks from winter roads: one part white vinegar to five parts water on a cloth, blot, dry slowly, condition. Treat them quickly; salt keeps working.
Never
- Put leather or suede in a washing machine, whatever a video suggests.
- Dry it with heat of any kind.
- Use washing-up liquid, bleach, white spirit or hand sanitiser on it.
- Store it in plastic. Cotton dust bags, with air.
- Fold it. Leather creases at a fold and keeps the crease.
- Wash a garment with leather trim. Wipe the trim and clean around it, as in washing bags and accessories.
- Ignore mould. Wipe it off outdoors with a barely damp cloth, dry slowly, condition; it spreads fast in a closed wardrobe.
Common problems
| Problem | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Leather hard and cracked | Dried with heat, or never conditioned | Cracks are permanent. Condition to stop it worsening |
| Pale tide mark after rain | Water carried salts and dirt to the edge of the wet patch | Dampen the whole panel evenly, dry slowly, condition |
| Suede gone shiny and flat | Nap matted by pressure or grease | Block eraser, then brush. Steam for stubborn areas |
| White bloom on a jacket | Mould from damp storage | Wipe outdoors, dry slowly, condition. Fix the storage humidity |
| Ink on leather | Absorbed into the grain | Act within minutes or accept it. A specialist is the only real option |
| Shoes creased across the toe | Normal flexing, worsened by no shoe trees | Shoe trees and a rest day reduce it. Existing creases stay |
| Sticky or flaking surface | Faux leather breaking down with age | Not repairable. This is the end of the garment |
| Strong smell inside a bag | Damp lining, not the leather | Air it open for days. Bicarbonate in a sock inside, left a week |
Frequently asked questions
Can you wash leather or suede?
No. Leather is skin and water strips the oils that keep it supple, while suede's nap mats permanently when wet. Clean leather with a barely damp cloth and condition it; clean suede with a brush and a block eraser, dry.
What do you do if leather gets soaked?
Blot it with a dry cloth, stuff shoes or bags with paper to hold their shape, then dry slowly at room temperature well away from radiators, hairdryers and direct sun. Expect 24 to 48 hours, and condition once fully dry. Heat is what makes wet leather dry hard and crack.
How often should you condition leather?
Every three to six months for smooth leather, more often in a dry climate or after it has been wet. Apply a thin even coat, leave it twenty minutes and buff off. Over-conditioning is a real mistake: it softens leather past the point where it holds its shape.
How do you clean suede?
Brush it in one direction with a suede brush after every wear, and use a block eraser on scuffs and shiny patches, rubbing gently then brushing again. Apply a protector spray before first wear and after each clean. Never use water or leather conditioner on suede.
How do you remove salt marks from leather boots?
Mix one part white vinegar to five parts water, apply with a cloth, blot, then dry slowly at room temperature and condition once dry. Do it promptly, because road salt keeps drawing moisture and damaging the leather for as long as it is left on.
Can you put leather shoes in the washing machine?
No. The agitation and water together destroy the structure, the adhesive and the finish, and heat in the dryer finishes the job. Canvas trainers tolerate a cold gentle cycle; anything leather does not.
How should leather be stored?
In a breathable cotton dust bag, with air around it, never in plastic, which traps moisture and causes mould. Keep shoes on shoe trees, do not fold leather garments, and keep everything away from radiators and direct sun.
